People who dress according to the “Quiet Luxury” fashion trend want to look very rich, but at the same time absolutely normal.
The trend has been perfected in the US television series “Succession” about the billionaire family Roy.
“The buyer profiles of luxury brands have become younger,” says Orsolya Hegedüs, partner at the auditor Deloitte, as part of the “Global Powers of Luxury Goods” study.
Luxurious and boring, or at least inconspicuous: This is how you can describe the fashion that the bad-tempered protagonists of the US series Succession wear to their billion-dollar deals. The Roy family series is inspired by US media mogul Rupert Murdoch and his children. The rich drama has been compared to dramas by Shakespeare since it first aired in 2018 and has won prestigious awards such as the Emmy.
In 2023, the year of the final season, fans are primarily concerned with the fashion of the fictional billionaire family. The Instagram account „Succession Fashion“ 100,000 people follow. Fashion journalist Amy Odell reaches with Tiktok Videos about the costume choices of the series millions of users. The most spectacular thing about the unspectacular beige blazers, suits and trousers in the HBO production is usually the price tag.
The Roy family is the epitome of Quiet Luxury. The art of looking rich in an understated way involves simple cuts and muted colors.
Young people in particular are looking for “old money outfits”
In the week that the first episode of the final season, Succession, aired, Google searches for “Quiet Luxury” increased tenfold worldwide. During the same period, searches for “stealth wealth” and “old money” have increased. That reveals something about the trend’s unwritten definition: it’s an expression of old, inherited money.
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Succession makes “Quiet Luxury” tangible by fashionably distinguishing the Roy family from less wealthy protagonists. This happens so subtly that the viewer is only confused when the married Tom Wambsgans is teased by the Roys for his looks. Only those who get used to the sight of the Roys will notice that the suits of the promoted Tom look strangely bulky. Tom looks like a divorce lawyer, protagonist Roman Roy says at one point.
According to the Pinterest platform, the search term “Old Money Outfits” is particularly popular with younger users. More than half of searches are from people between the ages of 18 and 24; a third to users between 25 and 34 years. On Google and Pinterest, interest will start in 2022.
How Succession influences current fashion
The trend is part of a larger development, says Diana Weis, a fashion professor at the BSP Business School in Berlin. The sedate luxury look will become more popular the more distanced young people look at the promise of advancement. Instead, successes are increasingly perceived as inherited – keyword ‘Nepo-Babies’: children of rich and famous parents who become rich and famous themselves. According to the expert, young people have realized that wealth comes from family and therefore want to adorn themselves with the “upper class codes”.
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“The buyer profiles of luxury brands have become younger,” confirms Orsolya Hegedüs, partner at the auditor Deloitte, in the context of the study „Global Powers of Luxury Goods“. On the one hand, young people are “more powerful than they were a few decades ago”. At the same time, luxury clothes could only be financed through the second-hand market, which was booming worldwide. According to a report by online platform ThredUp, around a third of Gen Z in the US chooses secondhand to afford higher quality brands.
Louis Vuitton as a status symbol
The first related search term when you google “Quiet Luxury” is Loro Piana. The luxury brand sells sports caps in one colour. The traditional Italian company claims to process the rarest natural fibers in the world. The single-colored caps cost between 400 and 800 euros, coats over 17,000 euros.
Fascination with wealth is not new. Bold colors and big brand logos were all the rage in the 80s and 90s. In New York, conservative fashion labels like Louis Vuitton have become status symbols. The hip-hop scene ostentatiously adorned itself with the monograms of well-established luxury brands—the more the merrier—to show that they had made the ascent. They posed with real gold around their necks, wrists and teeth.
LVMH boss Bernard Arnault benefits from the luxury boom
There is a reference to that time in Succession. Kendall Roy celebrates his 40th birthday (season three, episode seven) in a Gucci bomber jacket and sweater (value: 6200 and 800 euros), with a striking gold chain around his neck (13,500 euros). He even wants to rap. In this episode, Kendall is distant from his family and wants to go his own way – he fails. Returning to the bosom of his family, he returns to Loro Piana. In the last episode of the third season he wears a 470 euro shirt, a 2200 euro jacket, 820 euro trousers and 710 euro moccasins, all from the Loro Piana label.
The former Italian family company Loro Piana has been majority owned by Louis Vuitton, Moët and Hennessy (LVMH) since 2013. The French luxury goods group is the most valuable stock company on the European continent with a market capitalization of over half a trillion dollars, reports „Bloomberg“. And CEO Bernard Arnault is currently the richest person in the world.
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